Q: My husband and I are building a new house and are confused by roof pitches and wall heights. Does the roof pitch have a relationship to wall height?

Cathy from Hammond, LA

For having her question selected for this post, Cathy is receiving a complimentary set of KHS photo note cards.

A: Often it does. Roof slopes and the relationship of the roof to wall height (relative to the floor and ground) are critical to a successful design. Often the roof and its disposition are the most defining characteristics of a home.

roof slope 101
For the sake of discussion, let’s say there are three roof-slope categories. I consider a lower slope to be 7/12 and below. A steeper slope is 10/12 and above. A mid-range slope is everything in between. Think of roof slope in terms of rise and run. A 4/12 slope means that for every 12-inch horizontal run, the roof slope rises four inches.

Roof slope is partly a function of climate, available roofing materials, and structural considerations. The steeper the roof slope is, the easier for accumulated snow or water to slide or run off. So, wetter, snowier climates tend to have steeper roofs. Materials that perform well on a steeply sloped roof may be problematic on a roof slope below 4/12. Don’t forget that the primary role of the roof is to provide overhead protection from the elements. Roof slope can also have structural implications, with flatter roofs having different requirements than more steeply sloped roofs. Some roof/wall-height relationships can trigger other structural considerations too.

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Click on this photo to see it in the KHS photo note cards/prints gallery.It’s been a while since I’ve received a good, general-interest question to address in an Ask Katie post. So, I’m sweetening the pot. If you have a residential design question that many might share, email it to me at Katie@katiehutchison.com and put “Ask Katie” in the subject field. Please do not include or attach photos. If I select your question to answer in the next Ask Katie post, you’ll receive a complimentary box (chosen by you) of KHS photo note cards. I look forward to hearing from you.

by Katie Hutchison for House Enthusiast

Q: Can you offer any general guidelines for helping the overwhelmed home renovator on a tight budget set priorities? I’m buying another fixer-upper after selling my first one and was wondering how we can be more strategic with renovations this time ‘round. Are there things you always recommend tackling first? Things that I can ignore for awhile? Things you suggest that are almost always a worthwhile investment?

Gerry from Concord, MA

A: It may not be sexy, but deal with the infrastructure first. Address any moisture and/or structural issues as well as inadequate drainage systems. Upgrade outmoded electrical, plumbing, and heating systems so they’re both safe and efficient. Remove hazardous materials, like asbestos insulation or siding. Consider lead abatement if you have young children. Install life-safety devices such as smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors. Get rid of any bugs, rodents, or other pests. There’s no point investing in reconfiguring space or adding a family room if the existing house is likely to rot around you, collapse, make you sick, or catch fire.

Once you’ve made the necessary improvements to the infrastructure, determine the minimal additional changes that will make it livable enough to move in. That might mean removing old carpeting, refinishing floors, and

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Q: I would like to upgrade the builders’ grade trim package in our center hall colonial home. Faced with all the different molding choices at the lumber yard, it is very difficult to make a selection on the size and scale. Our home has 8-foot ceilings and I would like to add a crown, chair rail, new base, and window and door casings. How large can these moldings be before they start to look out of scale with the 8-foot ceiling?

Dave from Wheaton, IL

A: The way you’ve phrased your question suggests that you’re already on the right track. Selecting trim that is aesthetically appropriate to your space, while in proportion to it, is the key to a successful upgrade.

Since your home is a “center hall colonial” you may be looking for more traditional trim options. These are typically comprised of multiple components for each location and are generally larger than more contemporary alternatives. Since I suspect that yours is a newer “colonial”, not an antique, you needn’t slavishly reproduce period details. I recommend keeping it simple and elegant.

Consider a two-part base that consists of 1x6 flat stock plus a molded cap or

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Q: Can you weigh in on the much-debated replacement window question in old houses? I need to buy replacement double-hung windows and, although vinyl is seductively cheaper, I am a diehard all-wood fan. Recently I have heard that vinyl-clad windows can be more energy efficient. We are trying to make green choices in our home to reduce our energy consumption. What to do?

Jane from Concord, MA

A: To my mind a great, old house shouldn’t have to bear the indignity of vinyl replacement windows. There are many attractive alternatives that can improve upon existing performance, some of which may cost more in the short term but are well worth it.

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